Have you ever wondered what it’s like to step inside a lava tube formed thousands of years ago? On my first visit to the monument, I found myself exploring a fascinating underground world shaped by ancient volcanic activity. From descending into dark lava caves to spotting unique wildlife and discovering centuries-old petroglyphs, every corner of this remarkable landscape offered something unexpected. Join me as I share my firsthand experience exploring one of the most intriguing volcanic landscapes in the American Southwest.

First Stop: The Visitor Center and Getting Our Caving Permit

Our first stop at Lava Beds National Monument was the visitor center, and I highly recommend making this yours too.

Before you can explore any of the lava tube caves, you’ll need to pick up a free caving permit. The permit isn’t just a formality. It’s designed to help protect both visitors and the monument’s bat population. During the short orientation, a ranger explained basic cave safety, proper etiquette, and the importance of preventing the spread of white-nose syndrome, a fungal disease that has devastated bat populations across North America. Visitors are asked not to wear boots or gear that have been inside other caves where bats may roost, helping reduce the risk of accidentally introducing the fungus into Lava Beds’ cave system.

The visitor center itself is worth exploring before heading underground. Inside, you’ll find exhibits explaining how the lava tubes formed, displays about the monument’s wildlife, geology, and cultural history, plus a gift shop where you can pick up souvenirs or last-minute gear. If you forgot something, the visitor center sells items like helmets, gloves, kneepads, and flashlights, and they even loan out flashlights free of charge for the day if needed.

After receiving our permit and cave recommendations from the ranger, we felt much more confident about our adventure. Map in hand, headlights packed, and excitement building, it was finally time to experience our very first lava tube.

A Surprise Visitor on the Road

On our way to the next stop, we were treated to an unexpected wildlife encounter. A beautiful snake slowly slithered across the road right in front of us, giving us just enough time to stop and admire it from a safe distance before it disappeared into the lava rocks. It was one of those little moments that reminds you you’re exploring a truly wild place.

That sighting also served as a good reminder to stay alert while driving through the monument. Wildlife has the right of way here, and you never know what might cross the road next. In addition to snakes, Lava Beds is well known for its kangaroo rats, which are especially active after dark and can dart across roads with very little warning. Taking it slow not only keeps you safe but also helps protect the incredible animals that call the monument home.

One thing I’ll definitely be bringing on my next visit is a pair of binoculars. Lava Beds National Monument is considered an excellent destination for birdwatching, with a wide variety of raptors, songbirds, and other species found throughout its diverse habitats. While we enjoyed spotting wildlife during our visit, having binoculars would have made it even easier to appreciate the birds from a respectful distance.

Mushpot Cave: The Perfect First Cave

With our permit in hand, we decided to ease into our underground adventure by visiting Mushpot Cave. I honestly don’t think we could have picked a better place to start.

Located just a short walk from the visitor center, Mushpot Cave is designed to introduce visitors to the world of lava tubes. Unlike the other caves in the monument, it’s the only cave with permanent lighting and interpretive displays, making it easy to appreciate the fascinating geology without immediately diving into complete darkness.

The cave itself is relatively short at about 770 feet long, and a paved walkway guides you through much of the experience. While you’ll still need to duck in a few places, the smooth path and lighting make it one of the least intimidating caves in the park and a fantastic option for families or anyone who’s never explored a lava tube before.

As we wandered through the cave, the interpretive signs explained how these incredible tunnels were formed thousands of years ago when rivers of molten lava cooled on the surface while the lava beneath continued flowing. Once the lava drained away, it left behind the hollow tubes we get to explore today. Learning about the geology while standing inside the very feature being explained made the experience even more memorable.

Even though Mushpot is lit, it still feels like an adventure. The cool air, volcanic rock formations, and echoes bouncing through the cave gave us our first real taste of what makes Lava Beds National Monument so unique. By the time we stepped back into the sunshine, we felt much more confident to tackle some of the monument’s wilder, darker caves.

Valentine Cave: Our First True Lava Tube Adventure

After getting our introduction to lava tubes in Mushpot Cave, we were ready to take on something a little more adventurous. Our next stop was Valentine Cave, and the difference was obvious the moment we stepped inside.

The first thing that caught my attention was the entrance. Massive lava rock formations framed the opening, creating an incredible natural gateway into the cave. It almost felt like walking into the entrance of an ancient underground world, and I couldn’t help but stop for a moment to take it all in before heading deeper.

Once inside, Valentine Cave felt much larger and more open than Mushpot. The ceilings stretched higher overhead, the passages were wider, and without permanent lighting, it immediately felt like a true cave exploration rather than an interpretive walk.

The ground was another story entirely.

Unlike the paved path in Mushpot Cave, the floor of Valentine Cave is uneven, rocky, and covered with jagged lava. Every step required paying attention, and I was incredibly grateful that I had worn my mid-height hiking boots instead of regular sneakers. The extra ankle support and sturdy soles made navigating the rough terrain much more comfortable and gave me a lot more confidence as I picked my way across the volcanic rock.

Even with the careful footing, exploring Valentine Cave was an unforgettable experience. Our headlamps illuminated textured walls, lava shelves, and fascinating formations carved by molten rock thousands of years ago. The deeper we ventured, the quieter it became, leaving only the sound of our footsteps echoing through the enormous underground passage.

Valentine Cave was the moment I realized that every lava tube at Lava Beds National Monument has its own personality. No two caves are exactly alike, and that’s part of what makes exploring them so much fun. Each one offers a completely different perspective on the monument’s volcanic past while providing a new adventure for those willing to step into the darkness.

Skull Cave: Staring Into the Void

By the time we reached Skull Cave, I thought I knew what to expect from Lava Beds National Monument.

I was wrong.

The moment we stepped inside, I couldn’t believe the sheer size of it. The cavern seemed to stretch endlessly into the darkness, with towering walls disappearing far beyond the reach of my headlamp. It was easily the most awe-inspiring cave we had visited so far, and for a few moments all I could do was stand there, slowly turning in circles, trying to take it all in.

As we ventured farther into the cave, we eventually reached the famous staircase leading down into the lower chamber. I had fully expected to continue all the way to the bottom, but standing at the top of those steep metal stairs was enough to make my stomach drop.

I turned around.

It wasn’t just the height that got to me. It was the overwhelming darkness.

When you’re standing outside, it’s easy to imagine that exploring caves won’t bother you. But it’s an entirely different experience when you’re deep underground, surrounded by cold volcanic rock, with no natural light anywhere around you. Your tiny flashlight cuts a narrow path through what feels like endless blackness, leaving everything beyond its beam hidden from view.

Victor and I have a name for that feeling.

We call it “the void.”

It’s the strange sensation that the darkness itself is pressing in around you. The silence becomes heavier, the cave feels impossibly vast, and your imagination starts filling in everything your eyes can’t see. You know you’re safe, but your brain hasn’t quite gotten the memo. That’s when the panic begins to creep in.

Even though I didn’t make it down the staircase, I don’t regret turning back. Part of adventure is learning your limits, and Skull Cave reminded me that not every challenge has to be conquered to be worthwhile. Simply standing inside one of the monument’s largest lava tubes was an unforgettable experience, and it gave me a whole new appreciation for the power of both nature and the human mind.

Big Painted Cave and Symbol Bridge: Where History Comes to Life

After spending much of the day climbing in and out of lava tubes, our visit to Big Painted Cave and Symbol Bridge offered a completely different kind of adventure.

Unlike many of the caves we’d explored, these sites required a hike to reach them. I actually loved the change of pace. It gave us a chance to stretch our legs, enjoy the quiet volcanic landscape, and appreciate the monument from above ground before discovering another hidden treasure.

And the reward at the end of the trail was absolutely worth it.

Standing before the ancient petroglyphs was one of the most memorable moments of our entire visit. The carvings were remarkably clear, and it was incredible to think that people had stood in this very place centuries ago, leaving behind artwork that has survived for generations. Photos simply don’t do them justice.

Even better, we had the entire area to ourselves.

While having the caves and rock art all to ourselves made the experience feel incredibly peaceful, I’ll admit it also added a little extra spookiness. There’s something about standing in complete silence among ancient rock formations, knowing you’re surrounded by so much history, that makes you feel both incredibly small and deeply connected to the people who came before you.

One thing that’s important to remember when visiting these incredible cultural sites is to admire them respectfully. The petroglyphs are irreplaceable pieces of Native American history, and even something as simple as touching the rock can damage them over time. The best way to appreciate these remarkable works of art is from a respectful distance, helping ensure they’ll still be here for future generations to experience.

Ending the Day at Bunchgrass Lookout

As the day began winding down, we made one final stop at Bunchgrass Lookout, and it couldn’t have been a more fitting way to end our adventure.

After hours of scrambling over lava rock, squeezing through caves, and hiking to ancient petroglyphs, it was nice to have one last stop that didn’t require much effort to reach. We simply parked, walked a short distance to the overlook, and watched as the evening light spread across the vast volcanic landscape.

From the lookout, it was easy to appreciate just how expansive Lava Beds National Monument really is. The seemingly endless lava flows, scattered cinder cones, and wide-open sky gave us a completely different perspective than we’d had from inside the caves. It was peaceful, quiet, and the perfect place to reflect on everything we’d experienced throughout the day.

As we watched the sun sink lower, I couldn’t help but start planning a return trip.

Next time, I’d love to camp inside the monument. Spending a night under the stars and having even more time to explore sounds like the perfect way to experience Lava Beds at a slower pace. I’d also like to spend more time in one or two caves instead of trying to see as many as possible in a single day. Every cave had its own unique personality, and I found myself wishing I could linger a little longer and really soak it all in.

I also want to explore more of the monument’s above-ground hiking trails. We only had time for a short hike this visit, and while the scenery was beautiful, I quickly realized how exposed much of the landscape can be. There isn’t much shade out on the lava fields, so I think a cooler, cloud-covered day would make those hikes much more enjoyable.

Final Thoughts

Before visiting Lava Beds National Monument, I expected to spend a day exploring caves.

What I didn’t expect was just how much variety the monument had to offer.

One moment you’re navigating an underground lava tube with only your headlamp to guide you. The next you’re hiking to centuries-old petroglyphs, watching wildlife cross the road, or taking in sweeping views of a volcanic landscape unlike anywhere else I’ve been.

It’s a place that constantly surprised me.

Whether you’re an experienced adventurer or someone who’s never stepped inside a cave before, there’s something here for every comfort level. From the beginner-friendly Mushpot Cave to the immense chambers of Skull Cave, every stop offered a new perspective on the incredible forces that shaped this landscape thousands of years ago.

I left with sore legs, dusty boots, and a camera full of memories but also with a growing list of reasons to come back.

And to me, that’s the mark of a truly special place.

As always, thanks for reading and if you had any questions or comments I would love to hear from you if you would please leave a comment down below. And remember, have fun, be safe, and never give up on your travel dreams!